In case you haven’t read any features on any tragically accomplished American fashion designers in the past 10 years, they all go a bit like this: ‘Said designer has an impressive resume. Said designer went to Parsons. Said designer was an apprentice for a long time to another designer who hasn’t been relevant since the 70’s. Said designer has dressed all the celebrities and people who matter. Rich people fucking love said designer.’
Pamela Thompson‘s got nothing to do with all that nonsense. Ok, Pamela’s designs have been worn by more than a few pop stars but it doesn’t seem like Pamela got where she is today by simply following suit. It’s not that she isn’t thinking, it’s just she’s so busy dreaming. And thank goodness for that. It was her dreams that inspired some of the most iconic fashion images of my generation. Every wonder how Betsey’s runway shows became so naughty? Or why a high school ‘stoner’ walked right down the Heatherette runway under the tents at Bryant Park for the whole world to see? Pamela Thompson’s optomistic graphic design flavor and unmatched knack for playful visual merchandising carried her straight to Fashion Week but ultimately the self-confidence in her own unlikely yet strangely uplifting ideas made her a legend.
In 2006, after 4 years as Head Designer at Betsey Johnson, 2 years as Head Designer at Heatherette, and a 10-year collaborative presence at Anna Sui, Pamela launched her own signature collection, Pamela Thompson. The collection is every bit as lighthearted and whimsical as the woman behind it all. And just like Pamela herself, they clothes are sure to make you smile.
Back at Heatherette in 2006 some of us attended a trend luncheon at Swarovski or something and I remember I came back to the office, sat myself in your window asked how you did your forecasting. You explained that you don’t follow trends because as a designer there you didn’t feel that was your job. I know you are not one to follow suit. Where do you get your visions of sugarplums? I love that you remember that! After that luncheon I swear I DREAM in Swarovski! While working as Head Designer for Heatherette I was certain that the boys were leaders and not followers of trends. They were the people who made the trends. That’s why I knew my job was to also help lead rather than follow. My designs are a melding of ideas and concepts from many places. I create themes seasonally to keep my mind on track and focused. The themes can develop from current politics, social issues, culture and from images of art, photography, people on the street, magazines, vintage, internet, tv etc. The beauty of design is it is not limiting and your inspiration never runs out.
How do you edit yourself? That is hard! It is necessary for the sake of time and money to edit out those pieces that you wish you could try but you know in your mind are not right or not saleable. That’s what I love about fashion shows and also owning your own shop. In both you can experiment more and really take your imagination to a new place. Fashion shows allow you to show some pieces which you may or may not produce to get reaction, build your brand image or simply express yourself artistically. Owning your own signature shop allows you to make one off pieces and test them to see what the public thinks before you produce them on a larger scale. It is like a lab where you can experiment with dreams!
There are times when I’m working that I wish I had the confidence to be completely off the grid as I did when I was in elementary school. I loved to write and sing on a whim without worrying that I didn’t know how to do it correctly. There seemed to be no logistics to hold me back. Maybe confidence isn’t the right word. Fearlessness? You know when you’re at a young age you don’t over think things or worry that your ideas have no audience or that no one will buy it. You seem to have kept that fearlessness in your creative process and that’s how I always think of you. Are there ever times where your creative spirit feels a bit off?
There are always times you second guess yourself. I don’t think you would be human without that. You have to have confidence in your talent as a designer and it helps when you work for a label that gives positive reinforcement and supports you. I have been lucky to work for mainly creative labels that don’t require you to copy and don’t stifle your creativity. Many do this to make a quick buck and provide instant trend turnaround. Working for labels that don’t do this helps keep that fear at bay and allows you to push the envelope. The few places that I have worked and forced this mentality on me were not places where I was happy, and it ultimately hurt my creativity and confidence. If you work day in and day out for a company that constantly second guesses what you do and doesn’t let you experiment, you eventually burn out and become a product developer not a designer. There are so many companies out there that are more about making loads of cash and less about the design, brand, or quality. It saddens me. It is misleading to hire a designer and for them to start and realize their whole job is to copy other people. It’s not fair to the designer.
What role does your fine art play in your life? I am surrounded by art. My house actually is somewhat set up to look like
a gallery. I love being surrounded by art in all its forms so I am always on the lookout for people doing interesting things or finding lovely vintage pieces.
What types of things in life do you have an affinity for and how do they play into your collections? I am a major collector. It has gotten so crazy that I am just starting to collect images of things I love rather than the actual item! Takes less space that way (laughs). I love anything that sparkles. I love all types of vintage and new picture books, rhinestone jewelry, odd pins, vintage dollies, fabric and trim swatches, and most of all magazine tears! I have boxes and boxes from all the way back to high school of images I love. The internet is the greatest invention of all.
Are you writing a book? I am in the process of writing a question and answer book based on all of the questions and advice I have given out for the past 10 years via my website. I always wished there was someone that would have told me what to do and what not to do when I started, so I decided long ago to be that person for others.
*WHERE TO BUY
Let’s face it: New York Spring Fashion Week is boring. Everyone knows the fall collections are the shows worth watching. It’s not just the average Middle American who wouldn’t know their Gucci from their Prada, Spring Fashion Week in New York usually doesn’t have much of an effect on anyone. It isn’t very dramatic, there won’t be any major breakthroughs, and well, Madonna wouldn’t have even showed up at Marc’s show this week if she wasn’t already in town for her slice of the I-loved-Michael-Jackson-therefore-I-am-pie she scarfed down poignantly at the VMAs last weekend. This is probably why American Vogue has joined with NYC & Company, the City of New York, and the Council of Fashion Designers of America to corp-up the glam factor with Fashion Night Out and loads of commercial social gatherings intended to create interest where there wasn’t any before.
